30 Minutes with…Mike Shaw, Shaw’s of Dodworth, Barnsley, Leeds

How did you get into the industry?

My father bought his first shop when I was only one year old. We hardly saw him the first few years, although he always made sure he popped home for bedtime and then would go back to the shop – and in those days you would be frying past midnight. I was drawn to catering, but not to the fish and chip business, so I went my own way, determined to get out of Barnsley and never work in the chippy. I worked in hotels all over, including London, Vancouver and Sydney, and upon returning to Barnsley, I started working in international shipping and tried starting my own business. That was the point I truly appreciated all the hard work my father put in to get his new business off the ground and make it so successful. So in 2010, when he started talking about retiring and selling the business, I just felt it would be such a shame to lose an established, profitable business from the family. I came cap in hand, offered to eat humble pie, and learn the trade so that we could keep the business in the family. I soon got hooked and never looked back.

What’s your favourite food?

That’s tough, I love food! I’m going with a good 30+ day salt aged ribeye on a hot BBQ with a few homemade fries and a Greek salad. Reminds me of holidays and just tastes great.

Is there a food you won’t eat?

There’s nothing I haven’t tried on my travels, apart from chicken feet soup in Vietnam, which was a step too far, literally looking at chicken talons pointing at you out of a bowl…nope!

Where have you had the best fish and chips?

You can’t beat it by the seaside with that smell of sea air. Whitby is our go-to and there are many good ones, but Quayside is my favourite. I know they buy fish from the same vessels I do, and the guys there are really focused on quality.

What side is a must with your fish and chips?

Homemade mushy peas and tartare. It’s a classic for a reason.

If you could open a fish and chip shop anywhere, where would it be?

Iceland as it’s such a beautiful, natural place. The people are so friendly, hard working, have traditional values and are family-focused with a little slower pace of life. More like how the UK used to be. Imagine fresh cod, haddock or ling bought straight from a day boat and into the frier and whilst cooking, you’re  taking in those amazing views. Granted, the winters are dark, but the long bright summers more than make up for it.

Do you have a favourite restaurant?

There is a small place called Kishorn Seafood Bar in Strathcarron, north west Scotland, that is just perfect. It’s set in a beautiful area, with cracking views and amazing local seafood fresh that morning. Their clam chowder and mackerel pate are the best.  

What is your go-to drink?

It depends on the situation. A hand-pulled pint from a Brewery not too far from Barnsley called Bradfield Brewery. Their ale, Farmers Brown Cow, on a cold winter’s day warms the cockles. Or in the evening, I love a Negroni. Strong, dark and moody, just like me (my wife has just interrupted me and said “well, the dark and moody part is right at least”). She keeps me grounded.

What dish reminds you most of your childhood?

I’ve learned it’s a bit of a local delicacy not yet discovered or appreciated by most of the UK yet, but you cook a savoury pancake a bit thicker than a crepe, then smother it in thick gravy and, finally, add a few slices of raw onion and cucumber that’s been pickled in malt vinegar. I have a child memory of my grandfather often having this, and my father still loves it now. I’ve not come across this anywhere else but Barnsley as yet.

What is your guilty food pleasure?

Doughnuts filled with jam.

What’s been your weirdest food combination?

I can’t think of a food but I did have a mango margarita with chilli flake salt rim while in Mexico on my honeymoon and it became my drink of the holiday.

What one piece of equipment would you love to purchase for your business?

A Foster fridge fish thaw cabinet to make sure the fish is just perfectly thawed every morning, but two things put me off. One is that on a Friday and Saturday, I’d need two units, and the second is that keeping it clean looks like a bit of a headache.