Third time lucky

After his third time entering, James Ellams of Fish & Chips at Weston Grove in Upton, Chester, finally has his hands of the Drywite Young Fish Frier trophy

Winning the Drywite Young Fish Frier of the Year last week feels incredible and I still can’t quite believe it. Ever since I joined the industry at 16, Richard Foster always believed I’d have a good chance of winning it one day. To go on and win the award when the person who taught you so much has since passed away makes it even more special.

It was 2024, some five years later, when I first entered the Drywite Young Fish Frier of the Year award. I didn’t know what to expect and didn’t fully understand just how prestigious it was. The calibre of competition is so high, and it’s getting stronger every year.

I didn’t win in those early attempts, but I learned a lot each time. I took the feedback seriously and used it to improve. For example, this year, I spent a lot of time learning about other species of fish due to the challenges the industry has faced. I also made a point of visiting other shops, including going to see Ryan Hughes at Ship Deck, who has won Young Fish Frier of the Year and Fish & Chip Takeaway of the Year. When you spend time in places like that, you’re surrounding yourself with excellence. Even after winning this year, I still meticulously went through my feedback as there’s always more to learn.

I’m only 23 and this industry has already given me so much. I’ve travelled to multiple countries and been on various trips. The opportunities are endless – training courses, visiting other shops, speaking to people across the country. If I could tell my 16-year-old self anything, it would be to get a job in fish and chips, so I’d love to spend the next year showcasing to young people how rewarding a career in this industry can be.

When I got back to the shop on Thursday after the awards, I knew it would be busy. Thursday, Friday and Saturday were chaos. The queue didn’t go down, and by Saturday we’d sold out of fish and chips. One of our loyal customers, Bill, who’s in his 80s and can’t get to the shop anymore, always asks how I’m getting on in the competition. On Thursday, I delivered fish and chips to him and took the trophy. He couldn’t believe it. It was emotional and a real honour. My daughter, Arabella, who’s three, came to the shop to see my trophy, which was really special.

That same day I was on BBC Merseyside in the morning and BBC Radio 5 Live in the evening. Then I found out I was in The Daily Mail. I take pride in everything I do, so to represent not just our shop but the wider fish and chip industry on a national level means a lot.

I’ve got big dreams for the future, but for now, my focus is on producing top quality fish and chips and spending time with my family. My partner gave birth to our second daughter over the weekend, so there’s a lot to celebrate. Fish and chips has always been my passion. I used to work three nights a week part-time and think about nothing else. I love being in the shop and, as I’ve grown, my love for the industry has grown with me. Now I feel like I can start giving something back, and that’s a real honour.