Salt in the coastal town of Seascale, Cumbria, has been crowned the winner of the prestigious The Peter Hill Award, marking it as rising star in the industry. Behind the accolade lies a story of determination, a desire to be different and a passion for quality food
When Benjamen Seed first saw the building that would become Salt, it was far from ideal. Once an impressive grocer’s and delicatessen catering to an affluent boarding school, the structure had fallen into severe disrepair. So much so that it was featured in The Mirror newspaper as a visual representation of the downfall of coastal towns and how the buildings weren’t being upheld. But where others saw a crumbling facade, Ben saw potential. “It had so many ornate features boarded up,” he says. “I thought, ‘That’s a cool building, and it would make an amazing chippy.’”
Ben, who was left chomping at the bit after an unfulfilling career in cyber security, took on the renovation himself, calling in only an electrician and a gas safe engineer. “I think the judges really liked that aspect. Rather than just buying into a business, I’ve actually built this chippy myself,” he adds.
Salt officially opened its doors on 7th July 2023, initially as a takeaway before expanding into a sit-down restaurant by November. From the outset, Ben was driven by a desire to do things differently.
“I grew up in a place called Longridge near Preston, and it was an absolute petri dish for great dairy, great meat, and then, by proxy, great restaurants all doing old-school, home baking and cooking. I missed that. Some of the places around here don’t need to do that – because we’re a tourist destination, they can serve hot, salty, sweet food, and they’ll get away with it. I wanted more than that. And I’ll continue to do that because that’s where I get my pleasure from and where we’ve got our success from.”
Very best ingredients
This attitude lead Ben to source the very best ingredients, working closely with a nearby farmer 10 miles away to perfect his potatoes, for example. “What we’ve been able to do is grow loads of different varieties, lift them out of the ground at certain times, rumble them, see how they sit, see how they drywhite; do all those kind of things. I think the judges liked that as well.”
Currently favouring Casablancas for his chips, Ben sources Rammi frozen at sea cod and haddock, and partners with local butchers and growers to create a menu that celebrates Cumbrian produce. Additionally, there are a range of dishes made by Ben himself including steak puddings in suet pastry and chocolate brownies.
Ben has accomplished an extraordinary amount in just 18 months, and winning The Peter Hill Award has provided a much-needed pat on the back. “For any new chippy starting out, you have doubts and you ask yourself, ‘Are we doing things right?’ I had a different outlook than maybe a few others in the trade so this award is that validation. And it’s lovely to be recognised. Not just for me, but for the for the staff that work here. We’ve got a great team of young people who, to be honest, work harder than I did when I was their age!”
In addition to celebrating how far Salt has come, The Peter Hill Award also gave a resounding endorsement to the quality of its food. “The judge told me it was one of the top five meals he’s ever had in his life,” says Ben. “That kind of feedback is priceless, especially because the product has come such a long way since we started.”
Ben credits much of his growth to training from the National Federation of Fish Friers, including mentorship from head trainer David Miller. “I owe so much to David. He believed in me when I wasn’t sure myself, and his training gave me the confidence to pursue this dream.”
Support
The local community has also played a part, showing their support from day one. “We’ve got a great community here, and as soon as they knew I was building the shop, I had people coming in to see what I was doing every day, despite it covered in dust and me being a bit grumpy at times! They’ve always held an interest, and they’re proud of it.”
In return, Ben has found a unique way to give back: by adding a vegetarian curry to the menu that his wife makes with produce from Growing Well, a local initiative supporting mental health through farming. “It’s great to be part of something that not only tastes good but does good,” says Ben.
Salt’s journey from a neglected building to an award-winning chippy does not mean Ben’s work is done: far from it. Ben sees himself as a work in progress. “I’m still learning now the best way to do things,” he says. And with a host of support and training as part of The Peter Hill prize, Ben is looking forward to upskilling his team too. He comments: “We’ve got a young lady working with us who has so much potential. This award and the training opportunities it brings will allow me to invest in her development, which is exciting for both her and us as a business.”
One ambitious goal on the horizon is to brew Salt’s own beer. The building’s ample cellar space offers the perfect opportunity, though it requires significant renovation. “I brewed the beer for my wedding and loved it. Bringing that to Salt would be amazing,” says Ben. Other plans include ensuring the restaurant service is “on the money” and enjoying this year of being named best newcomer.
For Ben and his team, The Peter Hill Award is more than a trophy – it’s a stepping stone in Salt’s journey – a journey that is helping to breathe new life into the local area.
“Seascale is a little bit of a hidden gem,” explains Ben. “They call this area the forgotten part of the lakes because it doesn’t see the tourism stamp that say Windermere, Ambleside or Keswick get. Dilapidated seaside towns have taken a hit over the last probably three or four decades, so for the locals to see something in their backyard get recognised, it’s a big deal for them.”
